{"id":6595,"date":"2021-11-01T18:51:05","date_gmt":"2021-11-01T16:51:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/?post_type=tva_lesson&p=6595"},"modified":"2023-04-26T01:53:25","modified_gmt":"2023-04-25T23:53:25","slug":"stand-to-down","status":"publish","type":"tva_lesson","link":"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/biokinetic-k9\/course\/stand-to-down\/","title":{"rendered":"Getting Down On Downs"},"content":{"rendered":"

Live Discussion Timestamps about working the Stand to Down<\/strong><\/h3>\n

<\/strong>00:00 Strength Program – Stand to down01:03 Where is the fold-back down used in sport?05:00 Difference between performing the exercise on one long platform and two separate platforms09:16 When fatigue sets in 13:09 Document your dog – take photos and videos!13:51 Video reviews15:32 Attica on the long platform20:14 Artemis – long platform25:57 Questions from me to you 29:47 The importance of understanding<\/p>\n

<\/strong><\/p>\n

A word on the Fold-back Down<\/strong><\/h3>\n

It looks like it should be simple, BUT the Fold-back Down is a full body exercise<\/strong> and while practicing these, your dog may tire quickly, especially in the beginning.  Watch for signs of fatigue throughout.<\/p>\n

To start, keep these sessions short!<\/strong> <\/p>\n

The movement requires that your dog first learns to shift his weight backward and then proceeds to move into the down, without moving his feet at all, while lowering the front and rear end at the same time and same speed.  That is a lot of thinking, coordinating, and moving at the same time.<\/p>\n

Moving with proper form and technique is HARD, both on the muscles of the body and on the brain! Especially if this type of movement is unfamiliar to your dog. Sometimes a session will only be 2 minutes and then the dog is done.  <\/p>\n

Take that break and do another 2-minute session later that day.  Continuing for too long on a difficult movement, trying to insist on form would create frustration for both you and the dog.  And then you are only practicing an incorrect moment – no good for the longer term in fitness.<\/p>\n

Start with one objective at a time – getting your own treat placement correct and then just asking for the feet to remain still to start.  Work toward everything moving in synchronization with a level topline as described below – especially when performing the downward movement – but remember that this is the more difficult part of the foldback down and will not happen immediately.<\/p>\n

Video yourself so that you can see how your dog is progressing – watch yourself in your camera lens so when it does happen (even that one time in a session) REWARD your dog with much praise – he is working really hard!<\/p>\n

Checkpoints of the Stand<\/span><\/h3>\n

Use these check points as your guide through the exercises<\/p>\n

    \n
  • Top-line must be neutral for your breed of dog i.e. no dipping or roaching of the spine.<\/li>\n
  • Eyes looking straight ahead i.e. nose is not pointing up or way down.  Muzzle is almost parallel to the ground.<\/li>\n
  • Front feet remain under the shoulders and the foreleg is perpendicular to the ground. Paws are neutral, facing forward and the elbows should not flare out.<\/li>\n
  • Knees, or stifles of hind legs are under the hips and pointing forward.  They should not be flaring out.  The pasterns should be perpendicular to the ground.  The natural angulation of the dog must be taken into account, then look to the pasterns being perpendicular first.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    Posture Checkpoints in the Down Position<\/h3>\n

    The head and neck, along with the top-line, must be neutral for your breed of dog.  The spine remains parallel to the ground i.e. no roaching of the spine.<\/p>\n

    Front paws remain neutral with both feet aligned and the elbows are tucked under the shoulders without flaring out. Each elbow has an equal and balanced weight bearing on each side.<\/p>\n

    The knees or stifles are evenly and equally flexed, pointing forward.<\/p>\n

    The back feet are tucked under the knees, are aligned, and pointing forward (some dogs do have a slight toeing out – especially some herding breeds, but we try to keep this to a minimum. There is an equal weight bearing on both sides (left and right) and from front to back.<\/p>\n

    Movement<\/h3>\n

    The dog should learn to move from a down to a stand and back again without moving his feet position at all.  <\/p>\n

    The goal <\/em>is to have one fluid movement as if the dog’s body were working like a piston where the front and the rear of the dog move together at the same speed and at the same angle<\/strong>.  The stronger your dog becomes the less his feet will move and the more fluid the movement will develop.<\/p>\n

    This synchronized movement where the front and rear of the dog works together also requires a load of abdominal\/core strength to create a rotation of the hips and butt (pelvic region) while engaging the hamstrings while shifting weight backwards into the fold back movement.<\/p>\n

    \n

    How you can help with your treat placement:<\/h5>\n

    You would also assist in the movement by ensuring your treat placement is correct. <\/p>\n

    Instead of just lowering the treat straight down to lure your dog into a down, lower your treat diagonally downward<\/strong> (slightly towards your dog’s chest) as you take him into his down position. <\/p>\n

    Similarly, do not just lift the treat straight up to get your dog into the stand position as this will cause his feet to move.<\/p>\n

    Rather, bring your treat diagonally forward as you raise it so that your dog follow and bring his body forward into the stand.  This will assist your dog in keeping his feet in one spot as he engages more muscles to do the movement.  <\/p>\n

    Keeping the feet still requires more muscle control to accomplish the movement.<\/p>\n

    Control the speed of the decent<\/h5>\n

    Lowering into a down where the front and the rear lower at approximately the same speed and in a controlled manner, requires that your dog shifts weight to the rear while he engages his core, balance, rear and shoulder muscles to execute the movement.  Your dog will even have to use their toes! \ud83d\ude42 <\/p>\n

    It is a big ask when this is a new exercise for your dog so, be patient with him. You will not be able to get this all correct in the beginning, but as your dog gets stronger, the control over his movements will start to show!<\/p>\n

    If you see that your dog is struggling to keep his front or rear feet still during the movement into the down position, he may be stiff and not yet have the flexibility around the shoulder or hip\/pelvic area.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n

    NOTES:<\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n

    Young dogs and growth spurts:<\/strong><\/h4>\n

    If your dog is young and still growing, there may be times, especially during their growth spurts, where their front is at a different height to their rear. They tend to look quite gangly.<\/p>\n

    It may be that it is physically impossible for your puppy to execute the foldback down properly.<\/p>\n

    If their top thigh bone or top fore-leg bone is still too long, they will have to move their feet to execute the position.<\/p>\n

    During these times, it may be better for you to alter the exercise as follows until they are more balanced in stature: <\/p>\n

    Place your dog in a sit position and ask them to walk forward with their front legs only until they lower their front end and are in a down position.  From this down position, ask them to lift their front and walk backwards with their forelegs into a sit position again.<\/p>\n

    This exercise may also serve as a shoulder exercise.<\/p>\n

    \n

    Different platforms:<\/strong><\/h4>\n

    If your dog moves their feet wider during the execution of the exercise, then performing the exercise on the longer, narrow platform will help your dog keep his feet directly under his body.<\/p>\n

    If your dog moves his feet backwards or forwards during the execution of the exercise, then performing the exercise on two very LOW or flat boards will help prevent this if your dog has a good understanding of foot targeting.  <\/p>\n

    You want to keep the two boards low to the ground so as not to place extra pressure though the angulation of the forelegs as the elbows touch the ground. The forelegs are to remain as parallel as possible with the ground while the front paws are on the platform in a down position.<\/p>\n

    \n

    Progression:<\/h3>\n

    If you are a beginner, then 3 – 5 repetitions performed technically well on flat ground is just awesome.<\/p>\n

    As a beginner, remain at this stage for at least 2 – 3 weeks so that the movements become fluid for both you and your dog!<\/p>\n

    Please give your dog loads of confirmation to build confidence and surety from you. This will ensure that he learns to enjoy new challenges as well as working with you.<\/p>\n

    Thereafter you may progress to an advanced beginner level of doing 5 – 10 good, piston-like repetitions on the flat ground.<\/p>\n

    Intermediate progression would be to transfer this exercise onto the platform.  Performing the exercise on the platform requires much more body control, balance and awareness. Remain performing 5 – 10 repetitions at least for 2 weeks.<\/p>\n

    Advanced intermediate would include 6 – 8 repetitions performed on the stable platform with one side slightly raised (no more than 10 cm \/ 4 inches).<\/p>\n

    After 2 – 3 weeks within a level, if your dog is performing the exercise with the correct form and pace, increase the exercises to a maximum of 2 to 3 sets of 12.<\/p>\n

    If you are going to progress to a more difficult level by increasing the height of the platform, be sure to dial back the amount of repetitions when starting the more difficult level and then work your way up again by increasing the amount of repetitions.<\/p>\n

    DO NOT increase height AND repetitions at the same time.<\/span><\/strong> Do either one OR the other and maintain that difficulty for 2 – 3 weeks.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n

    Watch for the following signs of Fatigue:<\/h3>\n
      \n
    • Not coming all the way up into a stand. Your dog will sometimes anticipate the down command and not bother to stand all the way up any more<\/span><\/li>\n
    • The down will be performed more quickly (to get it done and get out of there!)<\/span><\/li>\n
    • The down will be less controlled, and your dog will start to “plop” down, especially in the last half of the movement going down.<\/span><\/li>\n
    • He may simply refuse the exercise or show familiar signs of avoidance by offering another behavior or exercise.<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

      Videos<\/h3>\n

      Video 1: Performing the fold-back down on 2 LOW platforms<\/h4>\n

      \"\"\"\"<\/span>\"\"\"\"<\/span>\"\"\"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

      Video 2: Performing the fold-back down on one long platform – notice the difference in correct and incorrect treat placements<\/h4>\n

      Treat placement is VERY important in the Foldback Down.  In this video I start off with showing an INCORRECT treat placement (my hand move  straight up and down when rewarding the stand and the down) and notice how Attica’s front legs continue to move.  In the second half of the video I demonstrate the correct treat placement (diagnoally down and diagonally up) and Attica’s front feet remain in the same place.  Remember that your starting treat position (when your dog is standing) and your finishing treat positions are in the same place (when your dog is standing)<\/p>\n

      Video 3: Another video showing treat placement to help in the execution of the foldback down.<\/h4>\n

      Video 4: Performing the fold-back down on one long platform<\/h4>\n

      Different dogs provide for different challenges! \ud83d\ude42 This is my male and he is much more excitable about “anything!” \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

      Always keep your goals in mind! <\/p>\n

      Video 5: A visual representation of an incline and decline angle<\/h4>\n

      As you progress, you will start to change the angle of your board to increase the difficulty of the exercise.  You will see form the time path that to master a flat platform can take up to 3 months before you start with an incline at level 1 (wrist height)<\/p>\n

      This video is to show you how much more difficult a low incline makes the exercise and how the body has to work to accommodate the angle.<\/p>\n

      Please do not rush your dog to this stage – just because your dog can do one or two repetitions does not mean that they are ready for it.<\/p>\n

      Ensure that you get good strength with correct posture throughout the movement on the flat before progressing.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"template":"","class_list":["post-6595","tva_lesson","type-tva_lesson","status-publish","hentry","tva_courses-bk-9-foundational-strength-program","post-wrapper","thrv_wrapper"],"yoast_head":"\nThe Biokinetic K-9<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/biokinetic-k9\/course\/stand-to-down\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Getting Down On Downs - The Biokinetic K-9\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Join Us For Our Live Webinar On This Exercise\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/biokinetic-k9\/course\/stand-to-down\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"The Biokinetic K-9\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/thebiokinetick9\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2023-04-25T23:53:25+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/Attica-Start-and-finish-the-down.jpg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Estimated reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"10 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/dogsolutions.co.za\\\/biokinetic-k9\\\/course\\\/stand-to-down\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/dogsolutions.co.za\\\/biokinetic-k9\\\/course\\\/stand-to-down\\\/\",\"name\":\"Getting Down On Downs - 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