1.<\/strong> Your dog’s favourite treats<\/strong>!! <\/h4>\nStart with valuable treats so that your dog enjoys the exercises. Later, you may start using just their normal kibble. You will probably use up a breakfast or dinner portion when working on exercises – especially in the beginning.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
2.<\/strong> Your best sense of humour<\/strong><\/h4>\nHave fun with your dog and enjoy him! There are going to be some frustrating days, and you are going to have to call on that sense of humour!<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
3.<\/strong>S<\/strong>turdy, non-slip platforms or boards<\/strong>. <\/h4>\nBoards should be long enough for your dog to stand comfortably with all four feet on it, with front feet directly under his shoulders and his hind legs comfortably, with his hocks perpendicular to the floor. <\/p>\n
Determining the length of the boards:<\/h5>\n
The image below is how you determine the proper MINIMUM<\/em> LENGTH of your platform from hind legs to front legs.<\/strong>Ensure that when your dog is standing, its hind legs are placed so that the hock is straight and at a 90-degree angle to the floor. His front legs are straight and directly under his shoulder. This stance will provide you with the proper minimum length measurements<\/strong>.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/Stacked-Whippet.jpg\" "\\"Stacked")
<\/span><\/p>\nImage of a stacked Whippet in a proper stand – unfortunately, I don’t know the name of this beautiful doggo,<\/p>\n
Below is my dog, Artemis. You will notice that the platform is longer than his normal, relaxed stand. If I move his hind leg backward to the point that his hock is perpendicular to the floor, he uses up much more space on his platform.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/Artemis-Standing.jpg\" "\\"Artemis")
<\/span><\/p>\nThis is my dog, Artemis on his platform.<\/p>\n
Homemade boards:<\/strong><\/p>\nLong board\/platform:<\/strong><\/p>\nMy dog is too long (when standing correctly) for an aerobic step platform as well as The Klimb (unless I place two together), so I have commissioned my husband to make my platforms for me. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n
Below are my two platforms made from ex-shelves and the sides of an old whelping box. <\/p>\n
The top has been covered and glued down with a piece of rubber and then tacked with flat head nails (ensure that they do not interfere with the dog’s feet) or a staple gun. <\/p>\n
Underneath the platforms have pieces of rubber placed along them so that the platforms become non-slip wherever I place them.<\/p>\n
You will also require a stable way to incline the platform or lift it at one end. A brick or books should be fine.<\/p>\n
My long board is 30cm wide x 1.2m long (12 inches wide x 4 ft long)<\/p>\n
\n
Sitting boards\/platforms:<\/strong><\/p>\nThese are usually half a long board and you would need a minimum of two of these.<\/p>\n
Top and bottom should be non-slip.<\/p>\n
My boards are 30cm wide x 60cm long (12 inches x 2 ft long)<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/20200722_151429-scaled.jpg\" "\\"20200722_151429\\"")
<\/span>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/20200722_151448-scaled.jpg\" "\\"20200722_151448\\"")
<\/span>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/20200722_151203-scaled.jpg\" "\\"20200722_151203\\"")
<\/span>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/20200722_151624-scaled.jpg\" "\\"20200722_151624\\"")
<\/span><\/p>\nDetermining the width of your boards<\/h5>\n
The width of the boards becomes important when you are working on the accuracy of posture – especially if your dog is sloppy in their sit or down positions.<\/p>\n
To measure the best width of your board, place your dog in a sphinx down position. Ensure their rear feet are pointing forward and that your dog is comfortable and centred, i.e. not rolling to one side.<\/p>\n
Measure the distance between the outside of the rear hocks, and then add 2 inches or 5 cm to that distance. For most GSDs, a board approximately 1 foot or 30 cm in length is ideal. <\/p>\n
If your board is too narrow, the exercises become more challenging to execute and place a significant amount of stress on the body, as the adductors (inside thigh muscles) must work very hard to keep the rear legs tucked in enough so that their feet do not slip off the boards.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/Measuring-the-width-of-your-boards-scaled.jpg\" "\\"Measuring")
<\/span><\/p>\nSome other examples of platforms that you may use are: <\/strong><\/p>\n\n- a normal rubberised human Step Aerobics Bench<\/li>\n
- The Klimb (without legs) with a rubberised top cover (try and avoid using the Klimb with just the plastic top exposed as this is not a non-slip surface)<\/li>\n
- Cato boards with a non-slip covering<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
4. <\/strong>T<\/strong>wo<\/strong> stable blocks\/boxes<\/strong> <\/h4>\nYour two blocks should be big enough for your dog to place both his front or back feet on the block comfortably.<\/p>\n
The block should be at the height of the hock of the rear legs. It may be lower than this, but not higher. It must be stable when your dog stands on it, as well as non-slip on the floor.<\/p>\n
An example of this is an upside-down food bowl that is non-slip or a yoga block (caution that big dogs may find the yoga block too lightweight and knock them around too easily).<\/p>\n
IMPORTAN<\/span><\/em><\/strong>T<\/em><\/span>:<\/span><\/em> <\/strong>Each block must be stable<\/strong> – i.e. it won’t tip over if your dog is standing on the edge of the block, nor will your dog’s feet slip on it (good traction on the standing surface). <\/p>\nHome-made blocks:<\/strong><\/p>\nThese are my own blocks made easily from plastic “buckets”. <\/p>\n
I staple-gunned some rubber on to the top of them (the glue did not adhere to the plastic and rubber well). And then I staple-gunned rubber strips to the bottom so that they are non-slip on the carpet (what tells you that I have a new staple gun!! \ud83d\ude0a)<\/p>\n
The only drawback I find with these is that they are quite light-weight so it is easy for the dog to shift them to the side with their paws. I may have to place a Velcro strip onto the bottom of these so that they adhere more to the carpet and in that way, they are more difficult to be moved around by a heavier dog.<\/p>\n
This is a “big dog” problem though, and heavier equipment may also solve this issue, but will make the equipment more difficult to move around when you need it. Overall, though, I am happy with these blocks, and they do the job. <\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Foot-blocks-x2.jpg\" "\\"Foot")
<\/span>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Foot-block-bottom-non-slip.jpg\" "\\"Foot")
<\/span>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Feet-on-block.jpg\" "\\"Feet")
<\/span>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Plastic-Foot-block-with-rubbber.jpg\" "\\"Plastic")
<\/span><\/p>\n5. Two cones or poles that reach your dog’s shoulder<\/h4>\n
I use two camera tripods, but you may use anything as an object that your dog needs to go around.<\/p>\n
We normally use something that is as high as their shoulder, to prevent the dog from simply walking over the cone and not going around. <\/p>\n
If your cones are too low, you may simply insert a broomstick in the top or you may use a dining room chair as an object that your dog must go around.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
6. Foot targets<\/h4>\n
These are narrow, rectangular targets big enough for just the dog’s paws to fit onto them.<\/p>\n
The problem with these is that they are usually lightweight and the dogs easily move them around (which can be pretty frustrating for a handler – I know I was).<\/p>\n
But a slight modification really helps – add stabiliser bars. These will cause less movement and will prevent the bars from tipping over if the dogs stand on the edges.<\/p>\n
I saw this performed by my friend, Tim Cutter, when we worked with his dog, Croc.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/Balanced-Standing-Platform.jpg\" "\\"Balanced-Standing-Platform\\"")
<\/span><\/p>\nYou can see that the small foot targets are the same height as his sitting platform (this is important) and can be placed close to the sitting platform or any other board, while maintaining a small gap between the two, which is also important.<\/p>\n
![\"All](\"https:\/\/dogsolutions.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/All-boards.jpg\" "\\"All-boards\\"")
<\/span><\/p>\nThese are all my boards: long boards, sitting platforms (which I use the most), boxes at hock-height, higher red box, blue exercise foam pad.<\/p>\n
The foot targets I hardly ever use (they tip over and need the stabiliser extensions)<\/p>\n
The adjustable camping step is an awesome “box” to use for differing heights.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
Equipment Alternatives<\/h3>\n
In our Resources section below, there is a download of equipment alternatives that you may find especially useful.<\/p>\n
Shopping Resources:<\/h3>\nStable Platforms and Boards:<\/h5>\n
<\/a>Poland and Europe: Wood Dog<\/p>\n
Have fun with your dog and enjoy him! There are going to be some frustrating days, and you are going to have to call on that sense of humour!<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
3.<\/strong>S<\/strong>turdy, non-slip platforms or boards<\/strong>. <\/h4>\nBoards should be long enough for your dog to stand comfortably with all four feet on it, with front feet directly under his shoulders and his hind legs comfortably, with his hocks perpendicular to the floor. <\/p>\n
Determining the length of the boards:<\/h5>\n
The image below is how you determine the proper MINIMUM<\/em> LENGTH of your platform from hind legs to front legs.<\/strong>Ensure that when your dog is standing, its hind legs are placed so that the hock is straight and at a 90-degree angle to the floor. His front legs are straight and directly under his shoulder. This stance will provide you with the proper minimum length measurements<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/span><\/p>\nImage of a stacked Whippet in a proper stand – unfortunately, I don’t know the name of this beautiful doggo,<\/p>\n
Below is my dog, Artemis. You will notice that the platform is longer than his normal, relaxed stand. If I move his hind leg backward to the point that his hock is perpendicular to the floor, he uses up much more space on his platform.<\/p>\n
<\/span><\/p>\nThis is my dog, Artemis on his platform.<\/p>\n
Homemade boards:<\/strong><\/p>\nLong board\/platform:<\/strong><\/p>\nMy dog is too long (when standing correctly) for an aerobic step platform as well as The Klimb (unless I place two together), so I have commissioned my husband to make my platforms for me. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n
Below are my two platforms made from ex-shelves and the sides of an old whelping box. <\/p>\n
The top has been covered and glued down with a piece of rubber and then tacked with flat head nails (ensure that they do not interfere with the dog’s feet) or a staple gun. <\/p>\n
Underneath the platforms have pieces of rubber placed along them so that the platforms become non-slip wherever I place them.<\/p>\n
You will also require a stable way to incline the platform or lift it at one end. A brick or books should be fine.<\/p>\n
My long board is 30cm wide x 1.2m long (12 inches wide x 4 ft long)<\/p>\n
\n
Sitting boards\/platforms:<\/strong><\/p>\nThese are usually half a long board and you would need a minimum of two of these.<\/p>\n
Top and bottom should be non-slip.<\/p>\n
My boards are 30cm wide x 60cm long (12 inches x 2 ft long)<\/p>\n
<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\nDetermining the width of your boards<\/h5>\n
The width of the boards becomes important when you are working on the accuracy of posture – especially if your dog is sloppy in their sit or down positions.<\/p>\n
To measure the best width of your board, place your dog in a sphinx down position. Ensure their rear feet are pointing forward and that your dog is comfortable and centred, i.e. not rolling to one side.<\/p>\n
Measure the distance between the outside of the rear hocks, and then add 2 inches or 5 cm to that distance. For most GSDs, a board approximately 1 foot or 30 cm in length is ideal. <\/p>\n
If your board is too narrow, the exercises become more challenging to execute and place a significant amount of stress on the body, as the adductors (inside thigh muscles) must work very hard to keep the rear legs tucked in enough so that their feet do not slip off the boards.<\/p>\n
<\/span><\/p>\nSome other examples of platforms that you may use are: <\/strong><\/p>\n\n- a normal rubberised human Step Aerobics Bench<\/li>\n
- The Klimb (without legs) with a rubberised top cover (try and avoid using the Klimb with just the plastic top exposed as this is not a non-slip surface)<\/li>\n
- Cato boards with a non-slip covering<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
4. <\/strong>T<\/strong>wo<\/strong> stable blocks\/boxes<\/strong> <\/h4>\nYour two blocks should be big enough for your dog to place both his front or back feet on the block comfortably.<\/p>\n
The block should be at the height of the hock of the rear legs. It may be lower than this, but not higher. It must be stable when your dog stands on it, as well as non-slip on the floor.<\/p>\n
An example of this is an upside-down food bowl that is non-slip or a yoga block (caution that big dogs may find the yoga block too lightweight and knock them around too easily).<\/p>\n
IMPORTAN<\/span><\/em><\/strong>T<\/em><\/span>:<\/span><\/em> <\/strong>Each block must be stable<\/strong> – i.e. it won’t tip over if your dog is standing on the edge of the block, nor will your dog’s feet slip on it (good traction on the standing surface). <\/p>\nHome-made blocks:<\/strong><\/p>\nThese are my own blocks made easily from plastic “buckets”. <\/p>\n
I staple-gunned some rubber on to the top of them (the glue did not adhere to the plastic and rubber well). And then I staple-gunned rubber strips to the bottom so that they are non-slip on the carpet (what tells you that I have a new staple gun!! \ud83d\ude0a)<\/p>\n
The only drawback I find with these is that they are quite light-weight so it is easy for the dog to shift them to the side with their paws. I may have to place a Velcro strip onto the bottom of these so that they adhere more to the carpet and in that way, they are more difficult to be moved around by a heavier dog.<\/p>\n
This is a “big dog” problem though, and heavier equipment may also solve this issue, but will make the equipment more difficult to move around when you need it. Overall, though, I am happy with these blocks, and they do the job. <\/p>\n
<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n5. Two cones or poles that reach your dog’s shoulder<\/h4>\n
I use two camera tripods, but you may use anything as an object that your dog needs to go around.<\/p>\n
We normally use something that is as high as their shoulder, to prevent the dog from simply walking over the cone and not going around. <\/p>\n
If your cones are too low, you may simply insert a broomstick in the top or you may use a dining room chair as an object that your dog must go around.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
6. Foot targets<\/h4>\n
These are narrow, rectangular targets big enough for just the dog’s paws to fit onto them.<\/p>\n
The problem with these is that they are usually lightweight and the dogs easily move them around (which can be pretty frustrating for a handler – I know I was).<\/p>\n
But a slight modification really helps – add stabiliser bars. These will cause less movement and will prevent the bars from tipping over if the dogs stand on the edges.<\/p>\n
I saw this performed by my friend, Tim Cutter, when we worked with his dog, Croc.<\/p>\n
<\/span><\/p>\nYou can see that the small foot targets are the same height as his sitting platform (this is important) and can be placed close to the sitting platform or any other board, while maintaining a small gap between the two, which is also important.<\/p>\n
<\/span><\/p>\nThese are all my boards: long boards, sitting platforms (which I use the most), boxes at hock-height, higher red box, blue exercise foam pad.<\/p>\n
The foot targets I hardly ever use (they tip over and need the stabiliser extensions)<\/p>\n
The adjustable camping step is an awesome “box” to use for differing heights.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
Equipment Alternatives<\/h3>\n
In our Resources section below, there is a download of equipment alternatives that you may find especially useful.<\/p>\n
Shopping Resources:<\/h3>\nStable Platforms and Boards:<\/h5>\n
<\/a>Poland and Europe: Wood Dog<\/p>\n
Image of a stacked Whippet in a proper stand – unfortunately, I don’t know the name of this beautiful doggo,<\/p>\n Below is my dog, Artemis. You will notice that the platform is longer than his normal, relaxed stand. If I move his hind leg backward to the point that his hock is perpendicular to the floor, he uses up much more space on his platform.<\/p>\n This is my dog, Artemis on his platform.<\/p>\n Homemade boards:<\/strong><\/p>\n Long board\/platform:<\/strong><\/p>\n My dog is too long (when standing correctly) for an aerobic step platform as well as The Klimb (unless I place two together), so I have commissioned my husband to make my platforms for me. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n Below are my two platforms made from ex-shelves and the sides of an old whelping box. <\/p>\n The top has been covered and glued down with a piece of rubber and then tacked with flat head nails (ensure that they do not interfere with the dog’s feet) or a staple gun. <\/p>\n Underneath the platforms have pieces of rubber placed along them so that the platforms become non-slip wherever I place them.<\/p>\n You will also require a stable way to incline the platform or lift it at one end. A brick or books should be fine.<\/p>\n My long board is 30cm wide x 1.2m long (12 inches wide x 4 ft long)<\/p>\n \n Sitting boards\/platforms:<\/strong><\/p>\n These are usually half a long board and you would need a minimum of two of these.<\/p>\n Top and bottom should be non-slip.<\/p>\n My boards are 30cm wide x 60cm long (12 inches x 2 ft long)<\/p>\n The width of the boards becomes important when you are working on the accuracy of posture – especially if your dog is sloppy in their sit or down positions.<\/p>\n To measure the best width of your board, place your dog in a sphinx down position. Ensure their rear feet are pointing forward and that your dog is comfortable and centred, i.e. not rolling to one side.<\/p>\n Measure the distance between the outside of the rear hocks, and then add 2 inches or 5 cm to that distance. For most GSDs, a board approximately 1 foot or 30 cm in length is ideal. <\/p>\n If your board is too narrow, the exercises become more challenging to execute and place a significant amount of stress on the body, as the adductors (inside thigh muscles) must work very hard to keep the rear legs tucked in enough so that their feet do not slip off the boards.<\/p>\n Some other examples of platforms that you may use are: <\/strong><\/p>\n Your two blocks should be big enough for your dog to place both his front or back feet on the block comfortably.<\/p>\n The block should be at the height of the hock of the rear legs. It may be lower than this, but not higher. It must be stable when your dog stands on it, as well as non-slip on the floor.<\/p>\n An example of this is an upside-down food bowl that is non-slip or a yoga block (caution that big dogs may find the yoga block too lightweight and knock them around too easily).<\/p>\n IMPORTAN<\/span><\/em><\/strong>T<\/em><\/span>:<\/span><\/em> <\/strong>Each block must be stable<\/strong> – i.e. it won’t tip over if your dog is standing on the edge of the block, nor will your dog’s feet slip on it (good traction on the standing surface). <\/p>\n Home-made blocks:<\/strong><\/p>\n These are my own blocks made easily from plastic “buckets”. <\/p>\n I staple-gunned some rubber on to the top of them (the glue did not adhere to the plastic and rubber well). And then I staple-gunned rubber strips to the bottom so that they are non-slip on the carpet (what tells you that I have a new staple gun!! \ud83d\ude0a)<\/p>\n The only drawback I find with these is that they are quite light-weight so it is easy for the dog to shift them to the side with their paws. I may have to place a Velcro strip onto the bottom of these so that they adhere more to the carpet and in that way, they are more difficult to be moved around by a heavier dog.<\/p>\n This is a “big dog” problem though, and heavier equipment may also solve this issue, but will make the equipment more difficult to move around when you need it. Overall, though, I am happy with these blocks, and they do the job. <\/p>\n I use two camera tripods, but you may use anything as an object that your dog needs to go around.<\/p>\n We normally use something that is as high as their shoulder, to prevent the dog from simply walking over the cone and not going around. <\/p>\n If your cones are too low, you may simply insert a broomstick in the top or you may use a dining room chair as an object that your dog must go around.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n These are narrow, rectangular targets big enough for just the dog’s paws to fit onto them.<\/p>\n The problem with these is that they are usually lightweight and the dogs easily move them around (which can be pretty frustrating for a handler – I know I was).<\/p>\n But a slight modification really helps – add stabiliser bars. These will cause less movement and will prevent the bars from tipping over if the dogs stand on the edges.<\/p>\n I saw this performed by my friend, Tim Cutter, when we worked with his dog, Croc.<\/p>\n You can see that the small foot targets are the same height as his sitting platform (this is important) and can be placed close to the sitting platform or any other board, while maintaining a small gap between the two, which is also important.<\/p>\n These are all my boards: long boards, sitting platforms (which I use the most), boxes at hock-height, higher red box, blue exercise foam pad.<\/p>\n The foot targets I hardly ever use (they tip over and need the stabiliser extensions)<\/p>\n The adjustable camping step is an awesome “box” to use for differing heights.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n In our Resources section below, there is a download of equipment alternatives that you may find especially useful.<\/p>\n <\/a>Poland and Europe: Wood Dog<\/p>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\nDetermining the width of your boards<\/h5>\n
<\/span><\/p>\n\n
4. <\/strong>T<\/strong>wo<\/strong> stable blocks\/boxes<\/strong> <\/h4>\n
<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n5. Two cones or poles that reach your dog’s shoulder<\/h4>\n
6. Foot targets<\/h4>\n
<\/span><\/p>\n<\/span><\/p>\nEquipment Alternatives<\/h3>\n
Shopping Resources:<\/h3>\n
Stable Platforms and Boards:<\/h5>\n